Most puppies will see the vet around 6 to 8 weeks old for their first real checkup and to kick off vaccines and parasite prevention. It is also the perfect time to ask your vet about your puppy’s vaccine timeline, plus anything you are dealing with at home like biting, potty training, crate training, or anxiety.

After that, the big thing is consistency. Stick to the exam schedule your veterinarian recommends so your puppy stays protected and you get solid guidance at the right times.

When should my puppy be vaccinated?

Your vet will walk you through this, but in general, puppy vaccines work best as a series of shots on a schedule. Most puppies start vaccines between 6 and 8 weeks.

The “core” vaccine plan is meant to protect against common, serious illnesses like distemper, hepatitis, parvovirus, leptospirosis, and rabies. Your vet will tell you exactly what your puppy needs and how often based on your pup, your area, and your lifestyle.

Typical timing looks like this:

• Distemper, hepatitis, and parvovirus are usually bundled together in one shot. It is commonly given 3 times, about every 3 to 4 weeks, starting at 6 to 8 weeks, and finishing at 16 weeks or later.
• Leptospirosis might be included in that same shot or given separately as 2 doses spaced 3 to 4 weeks apart.
• Rabies is often given around 12 to 16 weeks.

There are also “optional” vaccines that might make sense depending on where you live and what your puppy is exposed to, like Bordetella (kennel cough), Lyme, or canine influenza. Your vet will recommend these based on risk.

Why does my puppy need more than one vaccination?

Because puppies start life with temporary protection from mom.

In the first days after birth, puppies nurse colostrum (early milk), which contains maternal antibodies. Those antibodies help protect the puppy early on, but they fade over time. Here is the tricky part: while those maternal antibodies are still hanging around, they can also block vaccines from working well.

Since we cannot know the exact moment your puppy’s maternal immunity drops off, vets use a series of vaccines to cover that transition window. The goal is to make sure at least a couple shots land at the point where:

• the maternal antibodies are low enough to not interfere, and
• the puppy still has not been exposed to disease.

That is why one shot is usually not enough for long-term protection.

Rabies is the main exception. Given at the right age, it is typically a single shot that provides long-lasting protection.

How can I provide permanent identification for my dog?

If you want the simplest “set it and forget it” ID option, go with a microchip.

A microchip is tiny and is placed under the skin using a needle (similar to a regular injection). The chip number ties back to your contact info in a registry, and shelters and vet offices can scan for it if your dog is found.

Good rule of thumb: microchip your pup, then make sure your registry info stays updated if your phone number or address ever changes.

Do all puppies have worms?

Not all puppies, but honestly… worms are super common. Puppies can pick up certain intestinal parasites before they are even born or through mom’s milk. That’s why vets usually want a stool sample early on, and why they often recommend checking it during the first few visits.

Even if you do not bring a stool sample every time, a lot of vets still recommend routine deworming. The reasoning is simple:

• Dewormers are generally safe and low-risk.
• Puppies do not shed worm eggs every day, so a stool test can miss them even if worms are there.
• Some worms can be passed to humans, so it is not something to ignore.

Also, deworming usually needs to be repeated, because most treatments only kill the adult worms. In a few weeks, the younger stages grow up and you have to knock them out too. And yes, dogs can get reinfected later in life (hookworms, whipworms, roundworms), so periodic prevention is pretty normal.

What about tapeworms?

Tapeworms are common too, but they work differently. Dogs usually get them from an “in-between” source, like:

• swallowing fleas (big one),
• eating raw meat,
• or catching and eating small animals like mice, birds, or rabbits.

If a dog has tapeworms, you might see small white segments in the stool (or stuck under the tail). People always say “rice grains” and that is actually a decent description.

If you see that, take a pic and call your vet. They can prescribe the right treatment and help you prevent it from coming back (usually by addressing fleas too).

What should I do if my puppy has fleas?

The weird part about fleas is most of them are not actually living on your dog. The eggs, larvae, and pupae hang out in the environment, and only the adult fleas are riding around on your puppy.

So flea control usually means:

• treating the puppy (with something safe for their age),
• and sometimes treating the environment too.

Big warning: many flea products for adult dogs are not safe for very young puppies (under 2–3 months). Use only products that clearly say they are safe for puppies, and if you are unsure, ask your vet before putting anything on them.

What are heartworms?

Heartworms are one of those “do not mess around” parasites, especially in places with a lot of mosquitoes. They live in the bloodstream and can damage the heart and lungs.

Heartworms spread through mosquito bites, and the way you prevent them is with a monthly preventative (or whatever schedule your vet recommends). Dosage is based on weight, so as your puppy grows, the dose changes. Many preventatives also cover other parasites, and sometimes fleas and ticks depending on the product.

What are ear mites?

Ear mites are tiny parasites that live in the ear canal. The common signs are:

• nonstop ear scratching,
• head shaking,
• dark gunk in the ear.

But here’s the catch: ear infections can look the same, and ear infections are actually more common in dogs than ear mites. So if your puppy’s ears look gross or they are scratching like crazy, it is worth a vet visit to get the correct diagnosis. Treating the wrong thing is how you end up wasting time and letting the real problem get worse.

Why should I spay or neuter my dog?

Spaying (female) removes the ovaries and uterus, which stops heat cycles. Heat cycles usually mean bleeding and discharge for a couple weeks every six months or so, and it also attracts male dogs from basically anywhere.

The big benefits of spaying are:

• prevents accidental litters,
• eliminates uterine infections,
• greatly lowers the risk of mammary (breast) cancer when done early (often before the first heat, depending on your vet’s advice).

Neutering (male) removes the testicles. It can reduce certain health risks and behaviors tied to hormones, and it also helps prevent surprise pregnancies. A lot of vets do it any time after around six months, but timing can vary based on breed, size, and health.

Your vet is the best person to help pick the right timing for your specific dog.

If I choose to breed my female dog, how old should she be?

If you are planning to breed, it is usually recommended she goes through at least one or two heat cycles first so she is more physically mature.

Also, do not skip health screening. Your vet can recommend tests to reduce the risk of passing on inherited issues (like hip dysplasia or other genetic conditions).

Breeding for the first time after five years old is generally not recommended because the risk of complications goes up.